Sometime around 1630, a scholar, clergyman and artist, son of a court jeweller, had a dream. In his dream, Evliya Çelebi (1611-1682) met Muhammed and other prophets of Islam, and in his excitement, asked for travel rather than blessings. The Prophet, in his wisdom, granted both. Over the next 40 years, Çelebi would devote himself… Continue reading A Restless Soul: The Wandering of Evliya Çelebi
Belgrade isn’t exactly the first city that comes to mind when thinking about the Ottoman legacy in the Balkans. The preserved remnants at Kalemegdan Fortress and the Bajrakli Mosque are mentioned in every guidebook worth its salt, but one might not expect to end up having lunch in a hammam dating from the first half… Continue reading An Unexpected Hammam In Downtown Belgrade
The Habsburg Empire tried to conquer Belgrade from the Ottoman Empire several times: in 1688, in 1717, and then again in 1789. 1717 was the only time the Habsburgs retained long-term control over Belgrade, and between 1717 and 1739, Belgrade became the capital of the semi-autonomous Kingdom of Serbia within the Habsburg Empire. Although brief,… Continue reading The hidden traces of Habsburg Belgrade
